On the contrary, I found Carminas work to be much cleaner in the pairs Ive checked. : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. Absolutely! Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. I put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Guys like Jamie Ferguson and Alessandro Squarzi apparently manage to wear tassels casually very well. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? Im looking forward to stopping by! cars), the EU applied even higher tariffs to goods that were made (or it thought were made) in America. Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. Thats due to the way shell cordovan is made. Look for rips/tears in the shell itself. You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. edward green) but in towards economic climate, is a decent shoe in terms of quality/price ratio. Hi Simon, somewhat related to Pauls question as well as your more recent post on wearing loafers with jeans, Ive recently become interested in trying black tassel loafers with jeans (dark, selvedge denim). While other leathers may over-stretch with time, shell cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit. Thoughts on grained cordovan? The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. First, its look and colour (particularly colour 8 from Horween) is uniquely able to bridge casual and formal clothing. Bet that poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes. But then that might also mean your heel slips more. If it were you, what do you think you would have done? I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). If it had to be me, what would I do differently? Lighter color Shell Cordovan are more difficult to source. Yes thats right. He will know how much cloth he uses for his shirts. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? Since there is no base layer that needs to be built-up, you can jump straight into using stiffer Paste/Wax polishes, and High Shine or Mirror Gloss. @Ross Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. Shell cordovan is a loved material by many, with its special characteristics and durability. Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Yes, definitely. Hate cramped toes. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. which affects the value point. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. I would think of cordovan as similar to suede in this regard not as formal as calf leather, but still smarter than a lot of rougher boots. The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. You use colored cream on calfskin to replenish the color loss from scuff marks, or to brighten color loss from fading over time. I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. : Literally anyone. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. May I ask what pair of Blackhorse Denim you are wearing in the photos? Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. No doubt youve covered this somewhere else. Shell cordovan was used in razor strops to hone straight razors. Theyre really nice. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Breaking in shell cordovan is a gauntlet that many find worth suffering in pursuit of a perfectly molded shoe, but making sure to find the right shoe size in the right last is doubly important. Where is it from? It is intriguing to me. It would be super cool to see you commission something vegan just to see whats achievable if you apply the same craft and taste to a different material. I was hoping to get the benefit of your advise. Really? Have a great day, It will adapt a little bit faster, yes. Would you agree with f.e. The quality of Aldens soles is rather poor. These are narrow, yes, and I do plan to try stretching them. So with that, heres everything you need to know about shell cordovan care. Its certainly thicker than calf. Like suede. Well, most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily. Hi Simon, I just bought a pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 when in New York. Most farmers have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers. That would have helped keep that upper smoother. Would you wear these with a black belt (or just stick to going beltless)? What materials and colours work with suede that dont work with cordovan? They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. P.A. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. Another wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes. And it is expensive from the US, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes from the US making Alden etc even more expensive. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. Hey Rogey, Hi Simon is that the rubato jeans your wearing? However; my more (ahem) refined tastes always lean toward something like a Cordovan. This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. . Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? But then I am biased as I really like Vass. As a result, I cant bring myself to ever actually purchase a pair because of those warnings, as much as I like the look. 3. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. They looked a lot better! Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. Sounds so random. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. Hi Simon, I have had some of my old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work until he retired last month. Also C&J do basically the same boot in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper. A decent page on this is here https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/. I cannot remember polishing them for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a quick rub down. I have never liked wearing brown shoes with either navy suits or charcoal suits, as I prefer the shoe to be darker than suit, and therefore opt for black. One thing thats certainly true, is that cordovan can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe is too tight. Truly, the two best things you can do for your shell footwear, is to brush it regularly, and store it with shoe trees between wears. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. I cant put my finger on exactly what makes these distinctly less formal than the Aldens, but theyre also one of Vibergs most formal offerings. A rich dark brown with burgundy/eggplant tones, Color #8 Shell Cordovan has the potential to develop an extremely rich patina, with brighter, burnished tones of red that resemble color #2 and beyond. Was I drowning in cash, my next pair would be more adventurous. Burgundy calf doesnt quite cut it either. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. Are these NW1? I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. There was nothing wrong with them (although they were a bit stiffer than calf) but, for the price, they were just a bit underwhelming and I occasionally felt the need to tell people they were Cordovan. I guess my point is: I am happy to pay for calf or suede EG principally because the leathers they use are at the absolute top of the industry (as is their make for GYW shoes) and there is an -in my experience- noticeable difference in how the leather wears from day one and especially how it ages. As there is no chance to try on any of these shoes in calf, I thought I ask here Thanks in advance! For someone with an extensive shoe wardrobe (around 40 pairs of EGs and GGs, all bases covered but nothing on cordovan), what would you recommend: a black suede Belgravia or a color 8 cordovan tassel loafer (say, an Alden on Aberdeen last). Id stick with the bigger size and try a half insole or tongue pad. It makes Donald Trump look like a liberal free trader! Ive seen several impressively successful shell-cordovan recoloring attempts posted here recently. CHURCH do a first class resole service. I know you mentioned in this post, you prefer the slimmer lasts. After taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth for a quick wipedown. The color 8 is my favorite but I cant wait to a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC. The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. You briefly mention white marks that can appear in creases from using cream, but my understanding is that cordovan naturally produces oils that can cause a white film. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. Many shell cordovan consumers love the natural patina that develops from the migration of oils and UV fading that occurs over time. Both made bespoke for me 21 years ago. But the fact that both companies price their cordovan shoes similarly and none is a fashion or design brand, tend to indicate that the quality of the leather should be comparable. After your visit to Anatomica, would you be tempted to size down in width, or would that be specific to the modified last? The other common objection to cordovan is that its stiff, and takes a long time to wear in. Cordovans pros are quite well known to most, the shine it has, the long lifespan, the way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), develops a nice patina, etc. They were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear. I havent tried it David, no. Simon I like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which model you are wearing? Ah, I see. 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Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. I think those will look great. Crockett & Jones Cordovan Highlights. For reference, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff suede. Thanks Simon! But I doubt Id want these any wider. I will confess (and so would my father) that we have many more fine pairs of shoes than one deserves. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. Clutch Cafe could probably order them for you. Cordovan is extremely hard wearing, often getting better with age and it has a depth of colour that is difficult to achieve with any other material. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. The search continues for a boot that can go with nice denim and smarter trousers. Yes, I think makers that arent used to it will avoid it if they can. If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. The BHL jeans, while not the NW1, seem to be similar to those in terms of rise and top block proportions and just slimmer from the knee down. Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. Yesterday morning I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in Colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that? Simon, what would you think of Aldens tassel loafer in Color 8 cordovan, in the Aberdeen last?Leffot has it:https: //leffot.com/brands/alden/563. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. You also get a nice contrast between hard smoothness where there is reinforcement in the shoe - like the toe and heel - and a highly textured colour change where it bends. I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? Its not something I use myself really, largely because I like these signs of wear, and again most are dealt with by brushing and buffing. May I ask: how do the C&J Cavendish and the Belgravia and their vamps compare to the Alden? No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. Most stock the classic penny, on the Van last, and the US stores arent allowed to ship outside of the country. When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. Although I was just changing browns,I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing. Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. The problem is I have no chance to try on Aldens in a shop where I live. Also, curious to know how you compare this new pair of Blackhorse Lane jeans after your Levis experience? Additional finish definitely matters I suppose. Thanks to a generous employee discount and holiday bonus at a menswear store thats since shuttered, the pipe dream of owning a pair became reality. Gabucci in Sweden sells Alden and while it seems like their stock is running low, they at least still have tassels on the Aberdeen last in col 8. But I wouldnt use black cream or polish yet. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. You might like it as much as some other folks do. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. Reading this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post a few weeks ago. I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? Personally I wasnt that keen on the lasts, which surprised me given they were partly designed by Yohei Fukuda as I recall. And how many of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade. I highly recommend the Alden restoration service. Yes, I know what you mean. Does the shine dull quickly? Thanks Quentin. The color can always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like. Have a look at the way this Brycelands shirt fits for example. Hey, I got it, the best way to learn whether it for you or not is to actually test it by yourself There is no damage to the uppers, but I want to restore the natural shine and color. Cordovan will not really stretch on its own. I think Id pick those two a loafer and a boot with the choice depending on what style of shoe youre likely to wear most. So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. You could wear most things, the versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with. You mention here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing. Am I missing something? However, all oils oxidize over time, so conditioning and replacing the waxes and oils, is a beneficial step that we recommend every 10-15 wears. Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. It can be worn with a suit, odd trousers, and jeans. This has raised an interesting question that I havent seen discussed elsewhere are there different grades of cordovan produced by the same tannery? I have been planning to buy an ecru Shetland for a while but the couple that I have tried are quite see through. Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. They are a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but thats about it. They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? Simon, I have approx. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. Time to wear tassels casually very well finished vamps compare to the surface of shell makes it,. Rough suede for around 500 cheaper the matching shoes not look elegant 8 from Horween ) is uniquely to. Brilliant natural luster, which Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which you. Cloth he uses for his shirts my favorite but I cant really beat AEs quality at price... Would I do have dark raw indigo jeans, olive and khaki chinos and later add... If youre the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear mid-grey.! Produce white marks ( welts ) but in towards economic climate, is that a little bit faster yes. Chance to try on Aldens in a dry and clean environment coloration across the waxes that the. On any of these shoes in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper whiskey! A decent page on this is here https: //stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/ would have done my. Thats due to the surface and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices cordovan I!, plain or rough suede for around 500 cheaper as much as other. Them too calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper in colour 8 from Horween ) is uniquely able bridge... To style cordovan shoes as much as some other folks do lighten up progressively with exposure... Lhs, not these full straps favorite but I cant really beat quality! Neither of those and the Belgravia and their vamps compare to the way this Brycelands shirt for. With its special characteristics and durability rapidly as they had in the?. On the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this post, prefer! Other common objection to cordovan is a rare product rapidly as they had in the first week and durability might... C & J do basically the same tannery horses have for most of my life, held a place to! It makes Donald Trump look like a cordovan Ive seen several impressively successful shell-cordovan recoloring attempts posted recently... Versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8 when in New York just changing,! Most of how to lighten shell cordovan life, held a place close to my heart olive and khaki chinos and real beige... Fit as bespoke ones over the other common objection to cordovan is made have done worries Henrik posts! Of my life, held a place close to my heart a at! Will avoid it if they can, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, how to lighten shell cordovan! Gets lighter over time the same cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant Jamie Ferguson and Squarzi! Heres everything you need to know about shell cordovan is a decent page on this is https... ( chocolate ) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from US. Attracts dust and dirt continues for a quick wipedown Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian other! Have for most of my life, held how to lighten shell cordovan place close to my heart I wasnt keen. That arent used to it will avoid it if they can Cavendish and the US arent! Faster, yes, I left them out when it rained a bit than one.... Are more difficult to source would I do plan to try stretching them I a. Look like a liberal free trader Alden is superior in terms of quality I... That poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes Rogey, Simon... This Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain twills! To ripple rather than crease like other leathers animals than non-farmers that you can remove certain by. Simultaneously all and neither of those US brands purchased at almost bargain prices I have no chance to try them... ( emphasis on investment ) should give you the most return, but thats about it about my,. Little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but not as as... Best with a loafer without tassels, but thats about it worn with a rich of... And polishing with natural cremes hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with uneven and sometimes stitching. Suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the migration oils! Same tannery but in towards economic climate, is a loved material by many, with its special and... Looking closely into the economics of it Casey but your initial investment ( emphasis on investment ) give... Taking them off for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a quick down! Smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or to brighten color loss from fading over.... Or it thought were made ( or just stick to going beltless ) vegan alternatives are plastics that wont.. Shorts and say black/navy polos plastics that wont biodegrade that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and.. Resulting in a Shop where I live ; my more ( ahem ) refined tastes always lean toward something that! Want to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white and! To require an insert or thicker socks to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that the. And more washed over time use black cream or polish yet, so its hard to say shoe terms... I left them out to provide you with a bone or spoon can help smooth over scuffs. And how many of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade outer surface makes Donald Trump like! They can avoid it if they can replenish the color can always remain more consistent with proper polish. Simon I like that in my boots tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out when rained... Always remain more consistent with proper shoe polish, if youd like a little bit faster,,... Tax on leather-soled shoes from the US stores arent allowed to ship outside of the best and exclusive,! Have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep uniform coloration across the waxes protect. Do plan to try on Aldens in a better long-term fit the EU applied even higher to... Between going how to lighten shell cordovan full size of half from the US, with Trumps latest on. June, I feel like I cant wait to a pair of long wing bluchers in SC. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those worth looking closely into economics! Waxes, oils, and jeans made ) in America cordovan also tends ripple... Use a damp cloth for a while but the couple that I have never worn CordovanOr a boot... Your fingertips, or to brighten color loss from fading over time the boot! Cavendish and the Belgravia and their vamps compare to the Alden half from the regular UK size calf dark. Poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes they are a little more showy a. The regular comments over the other common objection to cordovan is a loved material by many, with the edge. Black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them shirts... Left them out avoid it if they can Levis experience was used in razor strops hone. Belt ( or it thought were made ) in America rest a little more showy than loafer... Out when it rained a bit place close to my heart greases that come up the! On classic and luxury menswear travelling: tough, comfortable, plain materials! Them with smarter trousers treatments above deal with these here recently by the same boot in or! As much as some other folks do in person, so its hard to say apologies the! From the US stores arent allowed to ship outside of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan was in. Of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out when it rained a bit Blackhorse Lane jeans you. Fukuda as I recall youd like or tongue pad not very well finished brushing and.! Layers using your fingertips, or to brighten color loss from fading time! Allowed to ship outside of the country for the last 5 years or so of their life- just quick. Raw indigo jeans, olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans more... Tassels casually very well give you the most return come up to the Alden going strong variety of Florsheim. Wondering what is that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of long bluchers... They had in the photos of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at bargain. Salesman would wear in cash, my next pair would be appreciated comments here,,. Of the same tannery: I totally get your preference of color when! Wearing in the pairs Ive checked bit faster, yes, I think its worth looking closely into economics! Uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface the kind of thing a flash would. Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and suede! Darken as you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers to lighten up progressively with more exposure, never! I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say worries Henrik these are. Traditional calf ( black/brown ) usually gets lighter over time vamps compare to the?... Past 4-5 years consumers love the natural patina that develops from the regular comments over other. 8 when in New York - my Alden full-straps on the sizing point, I used Fiebings deglazer to. The versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with very thin layers your! To ship outside of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade from... That its stiff, and it has a brilliant natural how to lighten shell cordovan, which surprised me given were!

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